Mobile mechanic FAQs

Yes. We are completely mobile, so we come to wherever your car is parked, whether that is your driveway, the office car park or the roadside. All we need is safe access around the vehicle and, for some jobs, a little room to open the doors fully. Fixing it on site saves you arranging a trip to a garage and keeps your car off the road for less time.

Most petrol and diesel vehicles up to 3.5 tonnes, from small city cars to light commercial vans. That covers family hatchbacks, 4x4s, motorhomes, company cars and fleet vans from all the major manufacturers. We carry dealer-level diagnostics for popular makes such as Ford, Vauxhall, Volkswagen and Mercedes. If you drive something more specialised, give us a call and we will check parts and let you know how soon we can come out.

Without the overheads of a fixed garage, our labour rates are usually lower than main dealers and many local workshops. Prices depend on the job, the make and the parts needed, but you always get a clear quote before any work starts, and servicing is fixed-price. There are no hidden call-out fees within our normal area, and we will tell you if a repair would not be worth it compared with what the car is worth.

We work in most conditions, with gazebo shelters, lighting and wet-rated tools. Safety comes first, though. If high winds, heavy snow or torrential rain would make a job unsafe or affect the quality of the repair, we will contact you straight away and rebook at no extra cost. If you have a garage, barn or covered car park we can often carry on there instead.

We are based in Great Sankey, Warrington, and regularly cover Warrington, Wigan, St Helens, Widnes, Runcorn and Newton-le-Willows. Other parts of Cheshire, Merseyside and Greater Manchester are within reach depending on our workload. There is no extra charge for call-outs within our core area, and anywhere a little further out may carry a small mileage fee that we agree with you first. Not sure if you are covered? Send us your postcode and we will tell you.

Call, text or WhatsApp us on 07989 747065 with your registration number, where the car is and what it is doing. We will give you an estimated price and our earliest arrival time, then confirm the slot once you are happy. You can also send the details and photos through the form on this website. Either way, you deal directly with the mechanic who will fix your car.

We accept most debit and credit cards, contactless, bank transfer and cash. Card payments are taken securely on our mobile terminal and you get a receipt straight away. Fleet operators can arrange account terms by agreement. Payment is only taken once the work is finished and you are happy with it.

Yes. Nine to five does not suit everyone, so we offer some evening and Saturday slots at no extra labour charge. Availability depends on bookings, and on daylight in the winter months, but we always try to fit in urgent repairs outside normal hours. Just mention the time that suits you when you get in touch.

Send us your reg and mileage and we will give you one fixed price for your car’s service before anything is booked. That is the price you pay for the service. If we spot anything else that needs attention, we tell you and price it separately, and nothing extra is done without your say-so.

Yes. We follow the manufacturer’s service schedule, use OE-quality parts and record everything in your service book or online, which keeps your new-car warranty intact under the Block Exemption rules. If your car has a digital service record we update it when we finish. You get an itemised invoice and a stamped history, which helps when you come to sell.

Every manufacturer sets its own interval, usually a time limit and a mileage limit, whichever comes first, and many cars show a reminder on the dashboard when a service is due. The exact schedule for your car is in its service book or online record. Send us your reg and mileage and we will tell you what your car is due.

No. MOT tests can only be done at a DVSA-approved test centre. What we do is check your car over before the test and put right the usual failure points, so it has the best chance of passing first time. If it has already failed, send us a photo of the failure sheet and we will quote for the repairs.

You can have an MOT up to a month (minus a day) before your current certificate runs out and keep the same renewal date. Checking the car before then leaves time to fix anything that turns up, so it never goes out of date.

No. A habitation check covers the living area, such as the gas, electrics and damp, and is done by a specialist habitation engineer. We service the base vehicle: the engine, brakes, fluids and everything else the manufacturer’s schedule asks for.

We work on motorhomes and campervans up to 3.5 tonnes. If yours is heavier, give us a call before booking.

Often, yes. We offer some evening and Saturday slots, so the van can be done around your working day. Availability depends on bookings, and on daylight in the winter months, so mention the time that suits you when you get in touch.

Most light commercial vans up to 3.5 tonnes, from small car-derived vans to large panel vans. We carry dealer-level diagnostics for popular makes such as Ford, Vauxhall, Volkswagen and Mercedes. If your van is heavier or more specialised, give us a call first.

At a time that suits the business. We can service and repair your vans outside trading hours, on the depot forecourt, or on site while your drivers unload, so the work fits around your schedule instead of the other way round.

Yes. Every visit comes with a digital inspection report that flags anything coming up, and service records that can go into your compliance platform to help keep your vehicles road-legal.

Yes, on most cars. We need a firm, level surface such as a driveway or car park and room to work around the car. If a particular job needs workshop equipment, we tell you before we start, then arrange transport and oversee the work so you are never left guessing.

Most engine faults can be put right on site. If a job does need workshop equipment, we arrange transport and oversee the work, so you are never left guessing about what is happening to your car.

Usually around four to six years, depending on the car, how it is used and the weather. Lots of short journeys, and cars left standing for weeks at a time, wear batteries out faster. If yours is slow to start on cold mornings, get it tested before it lets you down.

Yes. We come to your driveway, the car park at work or the roadside, usually within the hour. Tell us the make and model when you call so we bring the right battery, and we check the charging system too, so the new battery is not flattened by another fault.

Possibly. Many diesel and some petrol cars have a dual-mass flywheel, which wears alongside the clutch. We check it and tell you before replacing it, so the price you agreed is never a surprise.

It depends on how and where the car is driven. Plenty last 60,000 miles or more, but lots of town driving, hill starts and towing wear them out sooner, and so does resting your foot on the pedal.

On most cars, yes. It is a common job at home, at work or at the roadside. Some starters are tucked away behind other parts and take longer to reach, and that is reflected in the quote you get before we start.

Only as far as somewhere safe. If the alternator is not charging, the car is running on the battery alone and can cut out when it goes flat. Switch off anything you do not need, such as the heater fan and heated screens, and stop straight away if the steering goes heavy or the temperature gauge climbs, because the drive belt may have snapped.

Not always. A battery that has been run flat a few times can be damaged, so once the charging is fixed we test it and only recommend a new one if it needs it.

Usually for a short while, but get it looked at soon. A valve stuck open or shut makes the engine run poorly, can put it into limp mode and, on a diesel, adds soot that can block the DPF, which is a much bigger bill.

No. Removing or blanking off emissions equipment on a road car is against the law and can fail the MOT. The fix is to repair or replace the valve, so the engine runs the way the manufacturer designed it.

Usually one of three things: the battery is worn out, the alternator is not charging it properly, or something is draining it while the car is parked. Lots of short journeys make it worse. We test all three, so you do not end up buying a new battery that goes flat too.

Yes. Once we have traced the fault, most wiring and connector repairs can be done on your driveway or at work. We clear the fault codes, retest the system and give you a digital report of what we found and fixed.

If the light is steady and the car drives normally, you can usually carry on gently and book a check soon. If it is flashing, or the car has lost power, is overheating or is making a new noise, stop somewhere safe and call us, because driving on can turn a small repair into a big one.

A DPF light often means the filter needs a longer run at a steady speed so it can clean itself, and your handbook will say what your car needs. If the light stays on, starts flashing, or the car goes into limp mode, get it checked, because a badly blocked filter costs far more to put right.

The filter needs regular longer runs to burn off the soot it collects, so cars used mostly for short trips are the usual victims. Faulty sensors, a sticking EGR valve and injector problems can also stop it cleaning itself. We find the cause, so the problem does not just come back.

Clearing the fault code switches the light off, but if the fault is still there the light comes back, sometimes after the problem has got worse. We find and fix the cause first, then clear the code and retest the system.

Yes. Since May 2018 an engine management light that stays on is a major defect in the MOT, so the car will fail. Get it looked at before the test.

Usually for a short while, if the red brake warning light is off and the brakes feel normal. Your normal brakes still work, but without ABS the wheels can lock under hard braking, so leave more room and get it checked soon. If the red brake light comes on too, or the pedal feels different, stop somewhere safe and call us.

Yes. An ABS warning light that stays on, or that does not come on and go out when you start the car, is a major defect, so the car will fail. Get it sorted before the test.

The car will drive normally, but the airbags and seatbelt pretensioners may not go off in a crash. Treat it as urgent and get it checked as soon as you can.

Yes. An airbag or SRS warning light that stays on is a major defect, so the car will fail its MOT until the fault is fixed.

Only gently, and only as far as home or somewhere safe. Limp mode cuts the power, so the car cannot accelerate or keep up with fast traffic, which makes motorways and busy roads risky. Get it checked before you use the car normally again.

Restarting makes the car check the fault again, so the power often comes back for a while. The fault is still logged, though, and the car will drop back into limp mode until the cause is fixed.

It is best not to. A misfire usually gets worse, and unburnt fuel can overheat and damage the catalytic converter, which is expensive to replace. If the engine management light is flashing, pull over when it is safe and call us.

Misfires that come and go are often down to an ignition coil or lead that breaks down in the damp or when it is hot, or an injector or sensor that behaves differently when the engine is cold. Tell us when it happens and we will plan the check around it.

Dim or flickering dashboard lights, slow cranking or rapid clicking usually point to the battery. Bright dashboard lights with a single loud click, or nothing at all, point more towards the starter motor or its wiring. Only a proper test tells you for certain, which is why we test both before recommending anything.

Cold weather slows down the chemistry inside the battery, so it gives less power just when the engine, with thicker oil, needs more to turn over. A battery that is already weak often gives up on the first cold morning, which is why it pays to get it tested in the autumn.

Most of the time, yes. Batteries, starter motors and minor fuel faults are usually put right on the spot, at home, at work or at the roadside. If it cannot be fixed there, we can arrange recovery to wherever you choose, or come back and do the repair at your home the next day.

Yes. If you have broken down locally we can often reach you faster than a recovery truck. We run diagnostics at the roadside and try to fix it there and then, for example a battery, starter motor or minor fuel fault. If it cannot be fixed on the spot, we can arrange recovery to wherever you choose, or come back and do the repair at your home the next day.

Get the car as far off the road as you safely can and switch on your hazard lights, with sidelights too if it is dark. On a fast or busy road, get everyone out on the side away from the traffic and wait somewhere safe, well away from the car. On a motorway, wait behind the barrier and call for help from there, or call 999 if you are stuck in a live lane.